Malham Grassington Loop

The walk begins from Malham before climbing almost immediately into the Yorkshire Dales. The first hills are some of the steepest of the day, quickly rewarding the effort with expansive views across the surrounding countryside. It is a challenging start, but one that soon settles into gentler walking through open farmland and classic Dales scenery.

The route passes Winterburn Reservoir, a peaceful spot that makes an ideal place for a break. Stone bridges, quiet water and open views provide one of the best picnic locations on the entire loop, particularly on a warm day.

Beyond the reservoir, the landscape opens into long stretches of rolling countryside, with dry stone walls, woodland and well maintained footpaths creating some of the most relaxing walking of the day. It is a section where the miles seem to disappear without much effort.

Hetton is another good place to stop before continuing towards Linton Falls. There is a small village green with a bench, which is ideal if you have brought sandwiches and simply need somewhere quiet to sit. For something rather more ambitious, The Angel at Hetton serves Michelin-starred food and very good coffee. We understand there is also a hotel, although we did not stay there, so I cannot pretend to review the pillows with any authority.

Approaching Linton, the route descends towards Linton Falls, where the River Wharfe crashes through a narrow rocky gorge. The falls are surrounded by wide grassy riverbanks with plenty of places to sit and take a break, making it one of the best spots on the route to slow down for a while. On warm summer days, you'll often find a few brave souls swimming in the river. It certainly looks inviting from the bank, although the water still has a remarkable talent for feeling like the middle of winter.

The riverside path towards Burnsall Bridge offers easy walking with constant views of the river and surrounding fields.

The final challenge comes with the steep climb into Hebden. Although short, it is a tough ascent after an otherwise gentle afternoon and catches plenty of walkers by surprise.

Hebden is an excellent place to spend the night before tackling the second half of the loop. We stayed at the Clarendon Hotel, where the generous homemade pie and comfortable rooms were exactly what was needed after a full day in the hills.

The return to Malham begins gently, passing through a succession of lovely Yorkshire Dales villages and farmland. Cows, sheep and goats fill the fields, with horses appearing if you are lucky. Admire them, but do not feed them. The farmer may eat you.

Most of the climbing is saved for the back end of this section, because the hills always seem to gather around Malham. When the main ascent finally arrives, it looks daunting from below. The best approach is to settle into a steady rhythm and plod upwards rather than trying to defeat it in one heroic burst.

At the top, the route opens once again onto the rolling hills of the Yorkshire moors. Ancient trails criss-cross the landscape between dry stone walls, open fields and farm animals wandering freely. Other hikers and gravel bikers appear only occasionally, leaving long stretches where the countryside feels wonderfully quiet.

The final descent into Malham is steep enough to demand care. I ended up jogging down parts of it to protect my knees, such was the gradient.

Malham Cove soon appears on the right. The huge curved limestone cliff dominates the valley and is one of the best known landmarks in the Yorkshire Dales. Millions of years of water, ice and glaciers carved it into the shape seen today, and for a time a huge waterfall poured over the edge before the water eventually found its way underground. These days, it's more likely you'll spot climbers working their way up the rock face or, if you're lucky, peregrine falcons nesting high above.

Janet's Foss follows shortly afterwards. It's a small woodland waterfall with a surprisingly deep pool beneath it, which attracts the occasional wild swimmer who clearly has a far higher tolerance for cold water than I do. According to local legend, a fairy queen called Janet lived in the cave behind the waterfall, while "Foss" comes from the old Norse word for waterfall.

From there, Malham is close. The Lister Arms is a very comfortable place to stay, with recently renovated rooms and a proper pub and restaurant downstairs. The Buck Inn is another good option for a pint, especially in the beer garden at the back. For emergency supplies or forgotten outdoor equipment, H's of Malham is the useful stop before setting off again.